Kitty-Safe Plants for Home & Garden
The Problems Associated with Raw Meat Consumption in Cats & Dogs
Question & Answers about Pet Vaccinations
Kitty-Safe Plants for Home & Garden
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Plants to Avoid
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The Problems Associated with Raw Meat Consumption in Cats & Dogs
A number of recent newspaper articles and books on the subject of feeding family pets recommend
the feeding of raw meat (chicken, fish, meat and eggs) as the major or sole source of nutrition.
The justification for such a recommendation is based upon the fact that both cats and dogs are
classified as carnivores and are thus "meat eaters". However, the fact that cats and dogs belong
to the class "Carnivora" does not mean that these animals are exclusively meat eaters. Wild or
feral cats and dogs will consume a variety of foods, and even when consuming a prey, they will
consume the digestive tract, hide and bones in addition to the meat. The consumption of a raw
meat diet cannot be justified on the basis of it's nutrient content. Furthermore, raw meat can be
potentially dangerous to the health and well being of the cat and dog. The following is a brief
description of the potential health problems associated with raw meat consumption in cats and dogs.
1)Food Poisoning
Raw meat (chicken, fish, meat and eggs) is considered to be a high-risk food for poisoning
(DuPont, 1992; J. Amer.Med.Assoc. 268:3420). Microorganisms such as Campylobacter, Clostridia,
E.Coli and Salmonella can be found in raw meat products. The microbes produce a variety of toxins,
and it is the toxins which are responsible for a number of different signs and symptoms, including death.
Raw meat left out for a few hours at room temperature is ideal for the culture and growth of these
microbes. Considering the method by which cats and dogs are fed, the use of raw meat in this situation
can be very dangerous. However, the cooking to meat at temperatures greater than 165°F will certainly
destroy most of these pathogenic bacteria.
2)Parasitic Infection
Although food poisoning from pathogenic bacteria is the most frequent cause of foodborne disease from raw meat,
bacteria are not the only potentially dangerous microorganisms in raw meat products. Parasites such as Tricinella
spirallis and Toxoplasma gonadii can be found in various raw meat products, particularly pork. These parasites can
cause a number of gastrointestinal problems and flu-like symptoms in the cat or dog. Similarly, tapeworms and flukes
can sometimes be found in raw fish and liver, which can be transmitted to the cat and dog. Adequate cooking can readily
destroy these parasites and eliminate this potential health hazard.
3)Nutrient Deficiencies
Perhaps the greatest error made in the recommendation of the raw meat diet is the belief that raw
meat is more nutritious than cooked meat. In fact, there is very little difference in the nutrient
composition (quality or quantity) of cooked vs. raw meat. Raw meat does not, as claimed by a number
of authors, have any enzymes which would enhance the digestibility of the raw meat. Furthermore,
there are no nutrients, essential or non-essential, in raw meat that are not also found in cooked
meat. The nutrient composition of raw meat is very high in protein and lipid, and very low in
carbohydrates, vitamins and minerals. The feeding of a complete raw meat diet will eventually eventually
produce a number of nutrient of deficiencies, which could reduce the life expectancy of the cat or dog.
4)Conclusions
The belief that a raw meat diet is better than a cooked meat diet cannot be supported by any scientific
study. The nutrient quality and quantity of cooked and raw meat are virtually identical. However, raw
meat can contain a number of pathogenic bacteria and parasites that would be hazardous to the health and
well being of the family cat or dog. A complete raw meat diet is not a balanced diet and would have a large
number of nutrient deficiencies. Thus, there is no justification for feeding raw meat to any pet
and there a number of health concerns, which would make this a potentially dangerous practice.
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Questions and Answers about Pet Vaccinations
1.Are Vaccinations really necessary?Yes. Vaccinations help protect your pet from a number of potentially serious and even fatal diseases, such as Rabies. Not only that, vaccinations cost considerably less than the treatments available for the diseases pets are normally vaccinated against. Every pet should be vaccinated - even indoor dogs and cats can be exposed to a rabid bat.
2.How do vaccinations work?
Vaccines contain viruses or bacteria that have been modified so that they will not cause disease. When an animal is vaccinated, it stimulates two parts of the animal's immune system. One is the production of antibodies, the other is the stimulation of cell mediated immunity, which, in combination, mount a response against the bacteria or virus in question. If the dog or cat is later exposed to that disease, the two parts of the immune system will react quickly to destroy the disease-causing agent.
3.Why does my pet need regular booster vaccinations for the same disease?
The protection provided by a vaccine gradually declines over time. Your pet needs regular "booster" vaccinations to ensure ongoing immunity from disease.
4.Do I need to get my pet vaccinated every year?
This is a topic which is currently under investigation within veterinary medicine. Unfortunately, the duration of immunity for each vaccine is not currently known.
While pet owners can have blood tests done on their pets to assess the pet's antibody level, this does not test the level of immunity currently provided by the pet's cell mediated immune system. Until more is known about the duration of immunity, the frequency and type of vaccines administered will vary. Talk to your veterinarian about the risk of viral and bacterial diseases in your area, and the need for one, two or three year vaccines.
When considering what is best for your pet, please remember that pets age faster than people. Pets can't talk, and because "survival of the fittest" meant that only the healthy and strong survived in the wild, animal will try to hide any evidence of illness as long as possible. This means that there may not be any outward signs that your pet is ill until the disease is quite advanced.
That's why, in addition to having regular vaccinations, it is extremely important that your pet has an annual physical examination. By performing a yearly physical examination, your veterinarian can detect early signs of organ dysfunctions and illness. With early diagnosis comes early treatment. Early treatment in turn leads to an increased life span and an improved quality of life for your pet.
5.What diseases are vaccines available for?
| Vaccines available for dogs include: | |
| Rabis Hepatitis Parvo virus Lyme Disease Bordetella |
Distemper Parainfluenza Leptospirosis Corona virus Giardia |
| Vaccines available for cats include: | |
| Rabies Feline calicivirus Feline leukemia Chlamydia |
Panleukopenia Feline rhinotracheitis Ringworm Feline infectious peritonitis |
- Speak with your veterinarian about which of these vaccines are necessary for your pet(s).
6.Are Vaccinations 100% safe and effective?
Although your veterinarian cannot guarantee that a vaccines will fully protect an animal against a given disease, vaccinations have proven to be the simplest, safest and most effective means of preventing a number of diseases in pets.
It is important to administer vaccines only to healthy animals. If the animal is already suffering from an illness, or is receiving certain drugs, it's immune system may not be able to respond to the vaccine. For that reason, prior to vaccinating your pet, your veterinarian will ask you about yours pet's medical history and perform a complete physical examination.
Puppies and kittens require a series of vaccinations during their first four months of life. Nursing pups and kittens receieve antibodies from their mother's milk (maternal antibodies) which protect them form disease during the first month of life. These same antibodies can prevent a vaccine from being totally effective. Consequently, as maternal antibodies decrease, your veterinarian will give your pet a series of vaccines spread over a period of 6 to 16 weeks of age, to provide your pet with the best possible protection.
It is very important that you follow the vaccination schedule provided by your veterinarian. Missing a vaccine booster or being more than a few days late could put your pet at risk of contracting disease.
Puppies and kittens should not be exposed to unvaccinated dogs and cats, sick dogs and cats, or places where dogs and cats, roam (public parks etc.) until they have completed their puppy or kitten series of vaccinations.
Despite your veterinarian's efforts to design a safe vaccination protocol for every pet, vaccine reactions can and do occur. Thankfully, they are not common. Like a drug, a vaccine is capable of causing an adverse reaction. Some of these reactions are mild (some discomfort at the injection site, lethargy or loss of appetite for a day or so). Some of these reactions are more severe (allergic reaction, immunologic reactions). If your pet has reacted to a vaccine in the past, inform your veterinarian.
7.I've heard that some vaccinations cause cancer in cats. Is this true?
Vaccination-induced sarcomas (a form of cancer) in cats are rare. They occur most commonly with Rabies and Feline Leukemia vaccinations. It is important for you and your veterinarian to decide if the risk of your cat being exposed to these diseases in greater than the potential risk of developing a vaccine-induced sarcoma. If the benefits of vaccination outweigh the risk of vaccination, then the vaccination should be given. If your cat develops a lump at the injection site, call your veterinarian.
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House-Soiling In Cats
Cats that are house-soiling with urine may be differentiated from those that are urine marking
by the amount of urine that is released. When marking, a cat eliminates small amounts of urine at a time, usually on vertical objects, whereas a house-soiling cat tends to empty his bladder, resulting in a large puddle or wet spot. The exception to the above statement is that cats sometimes mark with full urination and/or defecation on human's concentrated pheromones (body odour) i.e. beds, bath mats, dirty clothes, etc. In these cases, the cat has a specific conflict with the person on whose pheromones he urinates or defecates and is treated for marking.
Cats may stop using their little box for a variety of reasons. They may have developed an aversion to the litter or the pan, they may be under some environmental stress, or they may have some disease. Environmental stresses, while not common causes of house-soiling, can be difficult to deal with. Moving, a new animal or person, or separation anxiety my cause house-soiling. If the cat is urinating on a person's clothing or bed, the cat often feels some frustration related to the person. For example, the cat may be very dependant on that person's schedule changes so they are spending less time with the cat. Urinating on personal items usually starts several days to 1 week after the stressful event. As stresses are cumulative, it may be that some combination of the above causes are responsible for your cat's loss of house-training.
Disease may also cause the cat to lose house-training. Anything which causes the cat to drink excessively will also increase the number of times it has to urinate, which can lead to "mistakes" around the house. Gastrointestinal diseases and nervous system disturbances may also cause the problem. The most common disease related cause of loss of house-training is urinary tract infection or subclinical cystitis. For this reason, your first step when the cat starts house-soiling should be to have it examined by your veterinarian.
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Treating House-Soiling
1. TAKE THE CAT TO YOUR VETERINARIAN FOR A COMPLETE PHYSICAL EXAM AND URINALYSIS
2. ADDRESS POSSIBLE PROBLEMS WITH THE LITTER BOX
- too clean - cats hate the smell of soap. Rinse the box with hot water, but do not wash it.
- too dirty - scoop the litter daily, and change it twice a week
- change the type of litter. Cats prefer litter with small particle size. You might try mixing sand 50:50 with the litter. Cats have desert ancestors, and sand seems to be a preferred substrate for elimination
- not enough litter in the pan - cats generally like about 2" of litter
- location of litter pan - put it where the cat is soiling, then gradually move it to a more desirable location. The litterbox should be it in a secluded, quiet area, but not too far away from the cats usual area of activity.
- change the type of pan to one with high sides, one with a cover, etc.
- build a frame around the pan so the cat can jump in easily
- NEVER PUNISH THE CAT when it is in or near the litter pan - this will cause the cat to associate the pan with unpleasant experiences, and avoid it
3. CLEAN THE ENVIRONMENT
CARPET
- Clean the areas where the cat has urinated or defecated with specific cleaners which break down the smell chemically. The smell of previous messes will stimulate the cat to eliminate in that location again. Cats have a very sensitive sense of smell, so it is impossible to eliminate the odor totally. Therefore you mask it.
TILE
- Wash the area with a strong soap like Pine Sol. Mix up a solution of 1 part Dettol and 4 parts water. Wash the area with the Dettol & water mixture every 4 days for 1 month.
SHOWER OR TUB
- Leave 2" of water in the bottom of the tub
FLOWER POT
- Use pure blood meal, mothballs, or upside-down mousetraps to keep the cat away.
4. REMOVE OR ALTER ENVIRONMENTAL STRESSES WHICH MAY CAUSE ANXIETY
If the cat is urinating on clothes or bedding, keep the cat out of the bedroom. By keeping the cat out of a room for a few weeks, it may stop soiling. If other changes have been made in the environment, the ideal solution is to change things back to the way they were before the cat started soiling. We may also want to discuss the use of medication to reduce anxiety with the referring veterinarian. Medication, however, will not solve the problem. To eliminate the problem, you must determine what is bothering the cat, and deal with the cause.5. RETRAIN THE CAT TO THE LITTER BOX
Confine the cat to a small room (the bathroom is ideal) for 1-2 weeks. Put the cat's litter pan, food, water, and toys, along with his bed, in the room with him. Spend time with him every day, but take him out of the room only if you are holding him. This will mean that the cat has no opportunity to go in any place other than his litter box, located in the confinement area. Once he is consistently using the box, you can gradually allow access to the rest of the house. When you start training, place a small amount of soiled material in the box each time you change the litter. The odor will attract the cat to use the litter. When you move the pan out of the bathroom, make sure it is in a quiet, accessible location. You may wish to put a litter pan on each floor of your house.Top
